DIY Perfect Fitting Pencil Skirt Pattern

DIY Perfect Fitting Pencil Skirt Pattern
 When I spotted this beautiful cobalt blue 2-way stretch fabric  at G Street that reminds me of a flexible, lighter neoprene  I immediately fell in love.  So you can only imagine the rush of excitement I received when I discovered it was less than $3.00 per yard.  It cuts and sews beautifully and feels very luxe.  Because it came from the clearance table I have no clue what the fabric consists of but at this price it didn’t matter.  What was even better than the price was that fact I was able to snag 5 yards which only means there is more cobalt in my future.  Because I LOVE pencil skirts and I receive quite a few questions on obtaining the perfect fit, I wanted to share a way to make your own pencil skirt shell which you can use to make a number of pencil skirt designs to fit your body perfectly.
For the top I used McCall pattern M6355 view C with the following pattern alterations:
-Removed 7 inches from the bottom of the pattern
-Cut 2 pieces of the back pattern instead of cutting on the fold and added a key hole
-Added a 1″ curved neckline
-Added the sleeves from Butterick pattern B5211 view C (added 5″ to the width)
Skirt Instructions are below:

Shades- Ralph Lauren
Heels- Giuseppe Zanotti for Vionnet

Skirt Instructions:

Tools: Pins
           Kraft paper
           Tailor’s chalk
           9″ zipper

-Measure your hips and the length you would like the skirt 
-Cut 2 pieces of fabric according to the above dimensions
-With the right sides together, and using a 5/8″ seam allowance, sew the left and right side of the skirt.  
-With the skirt inside out, try the skirt on and pin to your body, making sure you pin the skirt the way you want it to fit minus 1/2″ seam allowance.
-Carefully remove the skirt and using tailors chalk, trace the track of the pins.  Remove the pins and sew, using the chalk line as the edge of the fabric and sew using a 1/2″ seam allowance.  
Trim the edges leaving 1/2″ 
-Using a marker, trace the outline of the skirt, cut the traced pattern (use this shell for future pencil skirts)

-On the right side of the skirt, open the seam from the top, 4″ down (done to install zipper)
-Lay the skirt flat and measure the waist of the skirt 
-Cut a piece of fabric for the waist 5″wide by the number above
-Starting on the right side of the opening of the zipper, pin one end of the waist band to the edge of the skirt.  Using a 5/8″ seam allowance, attach the waist band to the skirt.
-Fold the top half of the waist band to the inside of the skirt and hand stitch to the inside seam.  
-Insert the zipper
-Top stitch the waist band seam
-Hem the bottom of the skirt using a 1/2″ hem



  1. Anonymous
    July 29, 2013 / 10:48 am

    Love this and all your DIY's

  2. kimmie J.
    July 29, 2013 / 10:49 am

    Another winner

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:29 pm

      Thank you Kimmie

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:29 pm

      You are quite welcome 🙂

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:29 pm

      Thank you Sing

  3. July 29, 2013 / 6:23 pm

    What an amazing job you did and you reminded me just how much I miss G Street's fabric club. I never belonged to any fabric club that showcased the quality tha G Street did. I just wish I could talk them into bringing it back. Do you live near G Street? I have always wanted to visit there. I am about 20 miles north of Philadelphia so it would be a jaunt for me to Rockville, MD, but maybe I can get to Mood someday.

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:29 pm

      Hi Nancy,

      Aren't G Street's sales amazing? I will travel hours for a great sale LOL I'm actually only 30 minutes from G Street so it's very reasonable for me.
      If you haven't been to Mood yet, it's a must! there are also other great fabric stores near Mood. Tip: go alone or with another fabric fanatic.

  4. Miss Pollyanna
    July 29, 2013 / 6:50 pm

    This is amazingly gorgeous! The color, the fit, just everything. I'm so inspired by you! I love the way you combine patterns to create these unique pieces.

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:25 pm

      Thank you so much. With my process of chopping up patterns, I never found a pattern I didn't like 🙂

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:24 pm

      Your so welcome 🙂

  5. July 30, 2013 / 2:49 am

    Can u plz do a little sewing on youtube plz

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:24 pm

      Hi Amber,

      I will work on it 🙂 can you come and edit because that's a job in it's self lol

  6. July 30, 2013 / 9:02 am

    Great dress, the cobalt blue is amazing, what a find for $3 🙂

    • July 30, 2013 / 3:23 pm

      Thank you Zoe, you have no clue how a love a great fabric steal 🙂

    • August 1, 2013 / 1:29 pm

      Awww thank you April your so sweet. Send me your email address

  7. August 1, 2013 / 2:38 am

    Love the color and the fit is perfect! You're amazingly talented!

    • August 8, 2013 / 5:15 pm

      Merci Dane J'ai hâte de jeter un oeil à votre blog et un camarade créateur 🙂

  8. August 6, 2013 / 3:00 am

    This dress is amazing Love it just found your blog and I'm following it great taste and style.

    • August 8, 2013 / 5:15 pm

      Thank you so much Sheila

  9. August 6, 2013 / 3:00 am

    This dress is amazing Love it just found your blog and I'm following it great taste and style.

    • August 8, 2013 / 5:16 pm

      Thank you Melissa

  10. November 11, 2013 / 1:38 am

    You make me wanna get on my sewing machine again…after years of non-creativity….beautiful color…great fit!!

  11. November 11, 2013 / 10:23 pm

    Thank you 🙂

  12. January 31, 2014 / 2:15 am

    Nikki, I do not sew and never have but you inspire me to take a sewing class. You make it look easy…Any tips?

  13. Anonymous
    February 2, 2014 / 7:12 am

    i love this….I want this but can not find it on your site……can you email me the price and how to purchase this outfit….at

  14. Anonymous
    February 5, 2014 / 6:49 pm

    for the waistband, do you cut it on the fold or cut two?

    • February 7, 2014 / 3:19 am

      It's one piece folded not cut.

    • April 12, 2014 / 6:46 am

      Hi Nikki, I stumble upon you blog tonight and I am blown away by your talent, poise and sense of fashion. You've inspired me so much beyond words.

  15. April 12, 2014 / 6:20 am

    Hi Nikki, I stumble upon you blog tonight and I am blown away by your talent, poise and sense of fashion. You've inspired me so much beyond words.

  16. Sarah
    December 4, 2014 / 10:52 pm

    Oh dear! This didn't work out for me. Had trouble pinning the skirt around my own body…hard to get it even…then once it was pinned, how do you get out of it? I struggled. I joined up my dots and cut, then found that somehow it was miles too small. So I'm not going to try this method again, but thanks for encouraging me to just have a go! I hate sewing patterns and can't understand them. So I appreciate the inspiration here, even if I did have a bit of a disaster. 🙂

  17. May 17, 2015 / 7:20 am

    Love you DIY, the clothes are great.
    Wish every page had photo instructions though, some of the patterns you refer to are sold out.
    Once I can find some good material in my country Im giving these a go.
    Also I just want to say your butt is amazing, its also inspired me to stop ignoring my gym membership lol

  18. October 13, 2015 / 5:39 pm

    Love this so much, so flattering.

  19. Anonymous
    December 29, 2015 / 12:53 am

    Are any of your pieces for sale

  20. January 14, 2016 / 4:24 am

    Would there be different instructions if the fabric was not give in anyway?

  21. Jen
    October 14, 2016 / 7:23 pm

    What type of fabric do you recommend for a stretch skirt that’s opaque? Thank you

    • Nikki
      October 16, 2016 / 7:03 pm

      You should use a 4 way stretch jersey/knit fabric. has a ton just make sure you read the fabric description to make sure it’s a medium weight. It tends to hold shape a bit better.

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